The Guardian travels across the nation the late Hugo Chávez dreamed of transforming, to understand its collapse
The latrines at Simón Bolívar international airport in Caracas overflow with urine; the taps are bone dry. In the departures hall, weeping passengers prepare for exile, unsure when they will return.
At customs, a sticker on one x-ray machine warns: “Here you don’t speak badly about Chávez!”
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