Celebrity chefs opened a restaurant in a depressed Los Angeles neighborhood, offering healthy fast food. Its closure raises questions about a hoped-for dining revolution
Once, the celebrity chefs Roy Choi and Daniel Patterson had a beautiful dream: they were going to open a restaurant on an unlovely street corner in Watts, the most depressed neighborhood in Los Angeles, and use it as the launchpad for a revolution to bring healthy, delicious, affordable food to every underserved community across America.
They called their restaurant Locol, and on the day it opened in 2016 a crowd of well-wishers, political leaders and Hollywood celebrities solemnly listened to Martin Luther King’s I Have a Dream speech before tucking into sandwiches and burgers made with artisanal bread, lovingly created tacos called “foldies”, bowls of “messy greens” and fresh-blended juices and agua fresca.
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